Amarillos in the wine territories, recipe books from the past, essays on grape varieties and iconic dishes, in bookstores

Amarillos in the wine territories, recipe books from the past, essays on grape varieties and iconic dishes, in bookstores


The years of the pandemic were difficult, but full of creativity. And even the world of Italian food and wine has never stood still, and while it now meets wine lovers and gourmets again at many events, there are also many volumes that are coming out in bookstores and online, and that are the result of the lockdown. Which made essay authors reflect on the passion for cooking and the origin of our most beloved dishes, conduct new research for scholars on the history of the most popular grape varieties, and which saw chefs find traditional Italian recipes for collect them into recipes. books made as they were before, but also illustrious characters are faced with unsolved cases set in the lands of wine and food of the belpaese. Without forgetting children’s literature, little table lovers who grow up.
Among the latest releases reported to WineNews by publishers and by the authors themselves, is “Kitchen of love and freedom. Eros and the art of loving” by Francesco Cavallo, hotel manager in his first literary test, which narrates, through a series of original recipes, the intense relationship between Eros and Food, accompanied by 31 color plates made by the illustrator and fashion designer Susanna Spelta (Mandragora, May 2022, pp. 124, cover price 24 euros). It is not a classic collection of recipes, but a book that reveals the connection that unites pleasure and good food with a seductive and unusual language, offering a series of international dishes whose ingredients are destined, when not indicated otherwise , exclusively to two. Here is the “Boiling Moonlight Risotto”, to enjoy at midnight with an unexpected company, “Kashgar Beef”, “Aisha’s Pulp”, “Cheek to Cheek”, “A love of Cabbage”, dishes in which the reader can try his luck, recognizing in each of them his own aptitude for love or his own desire for freedom. Starting with the Preliminaries, dedicated to the preparation of delicacies and sauces as appetizers, the volume then deals with two other sections: The First Audacity, reserved for first courses, and The Main Course, which instead offers second courses that include ” Mompracem’s rings”. , to be served, says the author, with an “intense, pirate look” as he told guests “when you used to play girl in the dark taverns of Labuan.” For a dish to be exciting, says Cavallo, it is not just the chemistry and combination of its ingredients, but the atmosphere that is created during its preparation. The kitchen can evoke smells, tactile sensations, sounds and images of nearby places and linked to our culinary tradition, or exotic, from distant countries, visited in the past but whose memory suddenly revives in a flavor. The thousand associations are able to create an atmosphere of anticipation and excitement. The recipes proposed in the book thus become an excuse to tell stories of picturesque places, from Parisian boulevards to Spanish neighborhoods, from the alleys of Naples to the Damascus Bazaar. And love stories, like the bewitching woman seen in the casino or the beautiful Aisha on the streets of Marrakech. The kitchen of love and freedom is also dressed with the sounds of great literature, disturbing the Iliad and the Odyssey and their famous heroes, men of love and freedom.
“Little history of the tajarin. Affectionate journey of a poor dish that has become rich “is a true essay on the quintessence of Piedmontese cuisine and a pretext from which the author Luciano Bertello, president of the Enoteca Regional del Roero for almost twenty years, moves to recount the history of Langa and its social cool even before the culinary with a foreword by Slow Food founder Carlin Petrini (Slow Food Editore, May 2022, pp. 176, cover price €14.50). A once poor and cursed territory, as Beppe Fenoglio tells it in “La malora”, which became the cradle of business success with the transition from peasant to industrial culture. The one outlined by the author is a dense mosaic of events, well-known personalities and historical facts, through the cone of light of an essential, feminine and domestic recipe. In this sense, it is the evolution of the tajarin themselves that speaks of the rebirth of the territory, going from a simple dish of family food to a true protagonist of the international gastronomic scene, especially thanks to the encounter with the White Truffle. from Alba. Flour and eggs always available in the farmhouse, generous female arms, a hen or a rabbit willing to sacrifice: the Tajarin still retain a clearly popular soul rooted in the territory, the same one that today represents one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. . And to show that the tajarin know how to make a place for themselves at everyone’s tables, the essay is enriched at the end with recipes and anecdotes related to the dish from both hosts and star chefs from the territory, including Davide Palluda and Enrico Crippa.
An important work that delves into the origins of the vine, redesigns its history and geographical extension, enriching them with new studies and research, as well as delving into oenological, ampelographic, genetic aspects, clonal selection, agronomic attitudes, sensory characteristics and the implementation worth. of wine in consumers, is the new book by Mario Fregoni, Pier Paolo Lorieri and Luigi Bavaresco and 36 co-authors dedicated to “Vermentino, a vine of climate change” (Città del Vino, April 2022, pp. 300, cover price 42 euros), which tells everything there is to know about an Italian variety that is impacting the world due to its malleability in the production of even alternative wines, many times not discounted, differentiated with respect to the production area. A variety that, according to the authors, would adapt well to the ongoing climate changes, sustainable in its management and in constant productive growth along the way, which represents an example of the potential of Italian germplasm, of its three thousand different varieties, and which demonstrates how the relationship between the world of wine, research and dissemination, with the involvement of institutions and the necessary intellectual freedom, can offer unprecedented expectations for Italian varieties.
With the usual goliardy and humor of true Tuscans, “The Enigma of the Whole Cow” is the hilarious second chapter of Panzano’s thrillers signed by the world’s most famous butcher who recites Dante at the Antica Macelleria Cecchini, Dario Cecchini , with the ‘friend a journalist passionate about the cases to solve, Alessandro Mauro Rossi (Giunti Editore, May 2022, pp. 240, cover price €16.90. After the case of the cyclists, life in Panzano in Chianti is calm again: Dario fights with the tourists who come to his restaurants, Alessandro with his activity as a journalist and the “enlightened ones” entertain the people with their funny oddities. The only noteworthy fact is the death of Arrigo, the almost centenarian guest of the Centro di Pescille. From the day of his funeral it is rumored that the old man was a Templar and has taken with him to the grave a secret that only Ettore, his young friend and cellar keeper of the Castle of Flacciano, knew, a secret that would refer to an ancient parchment and the formula of immortality and that could have unthinkable repercussions for humanity. , a few days later, Ettore is found dead under rather mysterious circumstances: drowned in a huge vat in the basement of the Castle Marshal Sarra and faith the Scoppellitti nailed are apparently the only ones in l to the city that they do not know about certain reckless art purchases made by the victim and his frequenting with the beautiful and mature Castilian. Between field investigations and interrogations, the reconstruction of the events of that fateful night cannot be separated from the help of Cecchini and his friend Alessandro, whose curiosity is only equaled by his cunning.
Instead, it is titled “Cook with me! 12 Menus to Go Crazy”, Chef Bruno Barbieri’s new cookbook, a year-long journey into Italian culinary tradition with a foreword by his friend, who is passionate about cooking, Giuliano Sangiorgi dei Negramaro (Realize Networks, Apr 2022, pp. 184, cover price €19.50 + €7.50 shipping). For each month of the calendar, Barbieri has thought of ad hoc menus, with easy-to-cook recipes that satisfy all palates, inspired by traditional Italian cuisine and with genuine and seasonal ingredients. Each moment of the year is marked by a first course, a second course of meat or fish, a side dish and a dessert inspired by the season and the products of the time, just as our grandmothers did, who conceived dishes and recipes based on in what nature offers. And it is a return to the origins of chef Barbieri, a tribute to all the grandmothers and mothers who have bequeathed us the pleasure of being at the family table, conceived as the precious recipe books of the past, presented by Words of Sangiorgi that are like a poem: “I am linked to Bruno by an inordinate love on both sides. Sometimes a song leads us to talk about a dish, halfway between the Via Emilia and the Salento sea. Other times a dish suggests the perfect music to accompany it, as if it were a glass of excellent wine, carefully chosen from the best grapes in the world and in that part of the world there are, always and again, my Puglia and his Emilia. ” .
Anyway, what a mess! Mr. and Mrs. Banks are about to leave, just as the family cook is forced to leave to treat her sick grandchildren. To do? Mary Poppins has no doubts: she will cook, with the help of the children. And so, the most famous nanny in the world and the little Banks prepare a special menu for each day of the week. From Cooked Yorkshire Pudding with Mrs Corry to Apple Charlotte with Admiral Boom and Roast Chicken with Bird Woman: many delicious dishes, to be replicated with the whole family, thanks to the recipes contained in “In the Kitchen with Mary Poppins” by Pamela L. Travers with illustrations by Mary Shepard, first published in Italy (Rizzoli, October 2021, pp. 96, cover price 14 euros), to the delight of young and old.


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