“Pizza, did you provoke me? And I bagged you.” So let’s imagine the moment when valerio braschichef of the 1978 restaurant in Rome, which many will remember as the winner of kitchen master 6, conceived his new creation. Is named Pizza Marinerabut the famous leavened product only has the flavor: it comes in the form of a transparent bag, with a completely edible “paper” wrapper.
It is not the first time that the chef of Roman origin has focused on a symbolic specialty of the Italian tradition, to give us a personal, playful and provocative version. Many will remember the echo that he had on social networks last year lasagna in a tube: a signature with which you still brush your teeth today at the table of the Restaurant 1978. Or, again, your carbonara to drink. But imagination is certainly not lacking for the young chef, one of the special prize winners future tradition awarded by the Gambero Rosso 2022 Guide, which now faces another gastronomic icon of Made in Italy.
Thus, after the pineapple on the pizza, one of the most frequent “crimes” perpetrated abroad against Italian cuisine in terms of fermented products, here is an unusual proposal that touches on a “sacred” food for all the inhabitants of the Peninsula: a creation that does not actually alter the taste and ingredients of a white art classic, but rather acts exclusively on the shape.
Valerio Braschi’s packaged pizza: a new Marinara
“You can’t touch the pizza,” someone comments on social media, along with (many) endorsements like “You’re a genius,” below the photo Braschi posted on Instagram. In fact, the idea is concentrate the flavor of your favorite pizza in a transparent bag, made with edible rice paper. “I thought about sealing these particular edible rice sheets with heat sealers: you have to be careful, because they are much thinner and more delicate than the rice paper commonly used to make spring rolls, and they need to be kept in a dry environment. “explains the chef. What’s inside? “Three ingredients processed into powder: the classic toasted pizza crust, which is a dough that we prepare at home and that we bake in a wood-fired oven, making it toast, so that it gives the palate the burnt aroma typical of this cuisine; a very tasty tomato cream with garlic, which is dried and blended; fresh oregano, which we dehydrate before pulverizing it”.
The result is an unprecedented format of Pizza Marinera that is proposed among the amuse-bouche toward 1978 restaurant. “We serve it along with five other tastings, to everyone who sits at the table: it is not necessary to ask for the tasting menu to savor it, it is a gift that we want to give to all diners as a welcome, a way to start off well and have fun,” says the chef. “Besides, an amuse-bouche of this kind allows the customer to get into the mood of a restaurant like mine, where there is a lot of experimentation: it is particular, but it has a traditional flavor, its flavors bring you back home. There should always be a bit of tradition, also out of respect”, continues Braschi.
The original Pizza Marinera in a bag it is an amuse-bouche dal intense flavor which the chef introduced last year and recently took off for two weeks. “I tried it, but then I decided to put it back on the main course, because all the customers were asking for it.” A success, in short, that, however, does not want to be a food provocateur. “Toward 1978 we offer many dishes with particular combinations, starting with drinking meat with monkfish: to find among the amuse-bouche also a taste of home, but personalized in our own way, it is a desire to put the guest in the right conditions to approach a different thought. In the end, only the aesthetics, the shape, the consistency and the temperature change”, concludes Braschi. Other “provocations” on the horizon? “No, for now I am concentrating on the conception of the new menu, which will be ready at the end of March, with many unusual combinations, as is our style.”
We are far from it future of marinara invented a few years ago by the number one in pizza Francesco Martucci Delaware The Masanielli in Caserta, at the top of the 50 Top Pizza 2021 ranking: an iconic creation that reinterprets the historical recipe by subjecting the dough to three different cooking methods (steamed, fried and baked). “It is the amplified expression of tradition, which is what you begin to know in the kitchen, the basic abc: you have to be good at studying it and expanding it, in fact. Without tradition there is no innovation”, he told us in 2020, when his recipe was awarded as pizza of the year. Now him Marinara comes in a little bag: is this the new future?